Lapins au grand air

La traduction suivra !

Rabbits need.....

SPACE  and EXERCISE

Rabbits are active animals, and can develop painful skeletal problems if kept permanently caged. Hence, daily exercise outside the hutch is vital.

• Two or more rabbits can live in a permanent enclosure
  with suitable shelter, exercising at will. This is the best
  option for the rabbits, who can display their natural
  behaviour patterns.

• Two rabbits can share a hutch at night with daily access
  to a large exercise run (or garden). The drawbacks are
  that the rabbits will be in the run during the day, rather
  than dawn and dusk when they are naturally active.
  Also, they may miss their daily exercise in bad weather.

Hutches can never be too big. The minimum size for average sized rabbits is 5 foot long, 2 feet deep and 2 feet high. "Starter hutches" are temporary homes for baby rabbits - you'll need a larger, sturdier hutch as your rabbit grows. The hutch must be tall enough for the bunnies to sit up on their hind legs. Larger breeds require much larger hutches.

When it comes to exercise, rabbits often enjoy running loose around the garden, but unless you can supervise the rabbit then there are risks both to your garden plants and the rabbit! An exercise run is often a better option. Exercise runs should also be as large as possible; ideally, at least 8 feet x 4 feet x 2 feet high. Instead of the traditional rabbit hutch, why not make your rabbit habitat an attractive garden
feature? Be imaginative... garden sheds; summerhouses; or wooden Wendy Houses with an aviary/run built on the side (accessed via a cat flap) make ideal homes. Remember to provide adequate additional ventilation; wooden buildings can overheat rapidly in summer.

COMPANIONSHIP

Rabbits are social animals. Unless your rabbit lives indoors with human company for most of the day, plan to keep two rabbits together. A male/female pair is easiest, but don't forget that both rabbits will need to be neutered, and introductions carefully supervised! The RWF leaflet "Bunny Buddies" explains how to pair up rabbits successfully.

STIMULATION

Rabbits need things to keep them occupied, such as plastic tunnels; large plant pots; hay-filled litter trays and planters of earth to dig in. Wild rabbits spend several hours foraging for food daily, so use your imagination when feeding your bunny. Scatter food on the floor of the hutch/run rather than feeding in a bowl, and provide constant access to hay.

 

Rabbit Hutches, design and location

Most people still opt for the traditional wooden rabbit hutch. It can be difficult to find suitable hutches in pet stores: most are flimsy and too small. Even the better ones usually require extra weatherproofing and upgraded door fastenings. Consider building your own hutch, or find a livestock housing specialist.

Hutches should have a living area with a strong wire-mesh door and a partitioned sleeping area with a solid door. There are many variations of the basic hutch design. Some have ramps to allow access to a built-in run underneath. The main drawback of this design is that bedding from the living area often falls down the
hole when the ramp is lowered.

Hutches must be raised on legs to give protection from damp, and to deter vermin. The roof should
be covered with roofing felt; sloped to allow water run-off; and have an overhang. Rabbits can not tolerate damp, drafts or excess heat so make sure that you site the hutch in a sheltered area, and out of direct sunlight or driving snow and rain. Don't forget to provide extra warmth in the form of extra dry bedding in the colder months.

Exercse runs: design

Runs can be either portable (moved around the lawn as required, with the rabbits carried to and from their hutch) or permanent, with a hutch within the enclosure. Permanent enclosures are best sited on an easily-cleaned base such as paving slabs; grass will quickly turn to mud! Portable runs sitting on grass must have a wire-mesh floor to prevent the bunnies from digging out. If the hutch isn't permanently attached to the exercise area, provide a wooden box or covered area for the rabbits to shelter or hide in.

Safety first 

Each year, many pet rabbits are snatched from gardens by predators - particularly urban foxes. You must protect your rabbits from attack by dogs, cats, foxes, and birds of prey. Chicken wire provides little protection; use strong weld mesh, with sturdy door fasteners, and check the doors regularly. Exercise runs need secure lids, to keep the rabbits in and predators out!

If your rabbits are allowed to roam free in the garden, make sure that the garden is escape-proof; that there's a "bolt hole"; and remember to remove or prevent access to poisonous plants.

Keeping outdoor rabbits healthy

Outdoor rabbits need regular health-checks. The RWF "Bunny MOT" leaflet explains how to do this at home. Outdoor rabbits are at particular risk from the deadly diseases VHD & myxomatosis; keep vaccinations up to date!

Flystrike

Did you know that flies can cause a maggot infestation on your rabbits, which can cause serious damage and even death?

Rabbits suffering from obesity, dental disease, diarrhoea, arthritis and skin wounds are at highest risk. Flies are also attracted to rabbits living in poor environmental conditions e.g. dirty hutches; always keep your rabbits' living area clean. Even rabbits kept in clean conditions may develop soiled hindquarters and attract flies. Once flies lay their eggs, they quickly develop into maggots which will soon cause damage to your rabbit and can often be fatal.